Links

Materials supplier list
many items here:                                        McMaster-Carr
bellows material: ThorLabs .12mm thick
dulling spray: StudioDepot – Krylon Dulling Spray

Helpful links: Mamut Photo lens chart
CSX Online – supplier of x-ray film
Other people building cameras: I Build A Camera

9 Responses to Links

  1. Mike Olshan says:

    Darren:

    What lens are you using?

    You seem to have re-invented the process camera I remember from the printer’s darkroom, which was used to expose high-contrast litho film for offset printing, to make a Velox or burn a zinc plate.

    I have a lens that was made for that purpose, perhaps you could use it. A 480-mm APO-Nikkor f/9. I don’t need it, do you want it? I think it will cover your format.

    Mike

    • darren says:

      Mike,
      I’m using a 1210mm Apo Nikkor and a Schneider 500mm convertible(with shutter). I would love a lens! Only problem is I don’t think that your lens will cover. I need 981mm to cover at(infinity?). That’s very generous though, and much appreciated.

  2. bk says:

    Hi
    If you are travelling with your Big Eye – near Boston – Please let me know. I would love to watch it. I live in Rhode Island. If you wish to photograph the Mansions of Newport RI – You can be my guest in Cranston. 857 222 5835.
    BK

  3. Hi Darren, I’ve shot Tech Pan and the Hi Contrast Copy film for many years, much smaller negatives of course. I had modeling problems also, much like your stuff in the Lands End sky stuff that was resolved by prewetting the film, some other people I know have used Photo Flo as a prewet, but try water first. It was important to have the bath prepared and then put the film in with agitation. The next step, developer, could not be poured in, again the bath had to be ready to go in a tray and then slide the film in with as smooth an action as is possible. I would agitate the first 15 seconds and then let the film rest for more than a minute, agitate for a few seconds, rest for a minute. This helped lower the inherent contrast in the film and I got great results.
    Regards,
    John Lawrence

  4. Tim Pearse says:

    Hi Darren,

    I’m a photography student from Plymouth, England, and I am just starting the process of building my own 30″x30″ view camera. As you seem to have had a great deal of success in this arena, I thought I’d ask if there was any advice you could give to a budding ULF-er.

    Regards,

    Tim

  5. Nick Savage says:

    Hello there from Florida,

    I was Sax Player and personal family friend of Bo Diddley for over 30 years.

    Dude, You are way cool! I have been into photography for many years and what you built and made work is mind blowing. You should be very proud because it is the kind of thing I would have loved to do myself. I have a real appreciation already for large format cameras, but yours is a real friendly monster.
    Hats off to you and keep going, You inspire!!!

    Sincerely,
    Nick Savage
    Gainesville, Florida

  6. Daniel Orndorff says:

    Hello from Baltimore!

    I’ve done some large format work with a 4×5 camera I built. The only real experience I have with film is with paper negatives that I developed with Caffenol-C, does the X-ray film require a special developer or would a developer designed to work with standard black and white film work? Also is it possible to cut the film down to smaller sizes? I noticed in the video that it looked somewhat thicker than normal film but that may just have been the angle. Thanks very much and good luck on your further photographic adventures!

    • darren says:

      Hey Daniel. I use d-76,and Pyrocat HD. I’ve used Rodinal in the past, but it tends to give me uneven development. You can cut the film, no problem. I’ve used 8×10 film in an 8×10 film holder with no issues, so it’s thin, although I suspect it might be slightly thicker.

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